Nathan Cherenzia
Stories (2/0)
Surfing
Have you experienced the rush of a crashing wave? After finding your way to the surface, you wipe the water and hair from your face, only to realizes another is barreling towards you. You strategize in a hastened mindset how you will pass this next wave, and look even further to how you will conquer the set. There is no time to react, with a six foot force rushing towards you. You react, hoping a few tries are enough enlighten your muscle memory. These are the struggles of a new surfer, seemingly daunting, but experientially invigorating. All of this take place in a deceptive environment. It seems peaceful, hearing the waves crash, feeling the spray of salt water, and smelling the saltwater. All of your senses are triggered as you pursue the activity, yet the environment develops into a retreat from reality. This paradox is the appeal to surfing. Because a surfer recognizes the false mindset, and it makes the trip to the beach much sweeter and more meaningful. It challenges your physical and mental abilities, as well as the naive characterization of the ocean as a harmless place of relaxation.
By Nathan Cherenzia6 years ago in Motivation